Tortelli Mantovani

After many years since the last time, I have been few weeks ago to visit the beautiful city of Mantova.
It’s a city full of art and history, and it has also a typical cuisine which I like (well, it’s not far from my home).
And between all the dishes, I would like to show now their most famous filled pasta (but not their only one).
The Tortelli Mantovani are a dish with a long history, their roots dates back to Renaissance time in the court of the Gonzaga family, but also in other famous families ruling the neighboring cities, like the Estiensi in Ferrara (see the Cappellacci), Farnese in Piacenza, Visconti in Reggio Emilia, Pallavicino in Parma), and the first written recipes were written by some of their chefs, like Cristoforo di Messisbugo, or famous gastronomists in those times like Bartolomeo Sacchi.
From town to town the recipes have some difference, but the main ingredient it’s always the same: the pumpkin.
But important it’s also the use of the mostarda, a typical condiment made of candied fruit and a mustard-flavored syrup, more specifically the “mostarda di Mantova” made with a particular type of apple called “Mela campanina”, and differently than in the probably more famous “mostarda di Cremona” in which the fruit is candied, in the Mantova type the fruit is just cooked.

So it’s a dish with a sweet and salted flavor, with spices and lemon zest, flavors that were very common in the cuisines of noble families in Renaissance time.

Differently than the famous tortellini, in this case the shape is not so important, there is not just one shape but you can find Tortelli Mantovani made in several different shapes.

The condiment instead it’s usually always butter and fresh sage, with some more cheese (while in the surroundings they might use differently, for example in Piadena with tomato sauce on a butter and onions base).

INGREDIENTS (for about 80 pieces, count 12 pieces per person):
For the filling
:

  • 1,2 kg of pumpkin (after baking it and removing the peel, it will remain about 50%)
  • 250-300 g Parmigiano Reggiano
  • 100 g Mostarda mantovana
  • 80 g amaretti
  • nutmeg
  • lemon zest
  • 2-3 spoons of mostarda syrup
  • salt
  • (1 egg, optional)
  • breadcrumbs if the filling is a bit too wet, but you shouldn’t need it if you use the right pumpkin and enough cheese and amaretti

For the pasta:

  • 400 g flour
  • 4 eggs (+ 1 yolk if you use flours that absorbs more liquid)

For the sauce:

  • butter
  • fresh sage leaves

  1. I suggest to prepare the filling 1 day earlier, so the flavors will merge together well and il will be less moist too. So start cutting the pumpkin in big slices and bake it at 180 °C until soft. Meanwhile remove the mostarda from it’s syrup, and cut it very small with knife. Grate also the Parmigiano Reggiano, and crush the amaretti. When the pumpkin is ready, let it cool down and then remove the peel and squeeze the pulp.
  2. Now mix all the ingredients together, and if really needed add some breadcrumbs, but you can see the following day for that. The filling must not be too much wet, and neither too much hard.
  3. The following day prepare the pasta. Sift the flour, add the eggs in the center and then mix the two together. When you have obtained a dough put it on your working table and work it energetically for about 10 minutes, until nicely smooth and strong. Then cover it with a plastic wrap and let it rest for about 30 minutes.
  4. Now flatten the dough (I prefer not at the thinnest setting of the machine). Then cut the pasta in big squares, of about 7-8 cm. Then place in the middle of each square of pasta a spoon of pumpkin filling (or you can use a pastry bag if you prefer) and close them in a triangle shape, for example (or square if you prefer, or like the cappellacci).
  5. Once you used all the pumpkin, take a pot and boil the water. Then when it’s boiling add the salt and then drop your Tortelli, paying attention not to break them. When they are ready they will float on the surface, 4-5 minutes or so should be enough. Try one to taste if the pasta is cooked, then drain them and add them in the pan with the hot butter and sage leaves, mix together and serve it.
  6. Add a sprinkle of freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano on top, and finally enjoy your hard work! 

PS: if you prepare more than what you need, you can keep them in the fridge or in a cool room for about 12 hours, otherwise put them in the freezer in this way: first you put a tray with the Agnolotti in the freezer, in about 30-60 minutes they will be already cold enough not to attach to each other and then you can store them in freezer bags or boxes. Delicious fast food 🙂

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